Isra-alien in Belize

The journey from Guatemala toward Mexico was a promised challenge, I could feel it, or I could tell from the rumors I’ve been hearing lately from all over. To be more accurate – Belize was going to pose the main problem.

Leaving Guatemala was piece of cake: the officers at the border demand Q20 ($3) although we were told it would be 10, which is not a formal departure tax anyway, but rather a very negotiable amount that helps feed their families.

Entering Belize is a different story, especially for citizens of specific countries, probably for political reasons. These countries include Algeria, Bosnia, Japan, Switzerland, and, of-course, Israel. Though the problem was going to be obtaining a simple (and free) transit visa, since I was merely using Belize as a passage to Mexico.

The nightmare began when the only officer was a large, black bald male, with a serious look, though I had prayed for a pretty Caribbean female I could impress.  I asked to go first, in case they made me pay for a visa:

- Hi, I’m traveling to Mexico through Belize, and I would like a transit visa, please.
- There’s no such thing, you need a visa, it costs $50.
- But I know that for people only passing through Belize, a transit visa is available.
- Didn’t you listen to me!? There is no such thing as a transit visa, you are from Israel, and you need a visa.
- (I take out a printed paper with the image above, of a transit visa issued a month ago for a few Israelis): I have a few friends who did get a transit visa.
- (Closing my passport, slamming it on the counter, angrily): NEXT!

Pissed off and irritated, I gave up and ran across, back to Guatemala, found a taxi driver and went to get my passport photo made, as is required by the strict, “honest” Belizeans.  20 minutes later, I return with my photos.  A lady clerk now sits next to the big intimidating fellow and I approach her:

- Hi, I want to get a visa to Belize, I need to pass on my way to Mexico.
(Both clerks converse in some weird English dialect I cannot understand)
- You cannot get a visa, we don’t issue visas on holidays and it’s a bank-holiday today.
- But the two Israelis that came after me got a visa, and they’re through to Belize.
- Okay, you argued before so now you can go back to Guatemala city (12 hours away) and get a visa.

The lady receives a phone call and smiles, I smile back and she changes her mind and hands me a simple visa request form, I go into the office, pay $50 and go back to the male clerk, who gives me a 1-day transit visa, the kind that comes for free…  So, quite a hefty sum ($150) for one lucky immigration control officer, from 3 Israelis who did not want to turn back and remain in Guatemala…  On the way out of Belize, some 6 hours later, I played a different card, this time using my lethal weapon – Spanish.  I told the immigration officer that I paid $50 for a transit visa and now they were asking $20 to leave – I said it’s outrageous and the clerk agreed and waived the extra sum only for me

3rd world countries – hell yeah, but the adrenaline of having to run into Guatemala and having faced deportation back to Guatemala will all be worth it in retrospect, and most importantly, the feeling of exiting with my hand on top – was worth it all. Another day comes to and end…